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Thoughts and prayers go out to everyone sleeping on a heating pad after shoveling several feet of snow this week. Let’s heal by planning our trip to the Amalfi Coast.
- Cris

Amalfi Coast

Beyond the postcards: What it's actually like to visit the Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast is one of those places that looks like a screensaver come to life. You've seen the pictures of colorful houses clinging to cliffs, but visiting is less about the view and more about the culture shock. For an American used to efficiency, the first thing you notice is that time works differently here.

The art of slowing down

In the US, we're obsessed with the clock. We grab coffee to go and eat lunch at our desks. In Southern Italy, that lifestyle is non-existent. People live by the sun. There is a mid-afternoon break called the riposo where shops close and the streets go quiet. At first, it's annoying when you just want to buy a bottle of water, but then you realize the locals have the right idea. They aren't lazy; they just refuse to let work ruin their day. I found myself sitting in a piazza for two hours with a single drink, just watching people. It felt strange to not be "productive," but that's exactly the point.

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Real food isn't what you think

Forget the heavy, cheese-laden Italian-American food you find in the States. The food here is simple. I went to a market and the lemons were huge (not the small, waxy ones we get at home). They use them for everything.

One of my favorite meals was in Cetara, a small fishing village that most tourists skip. They make something called colatura di alici, which is a salty sauce made from anchovies. It sounds intense, but on pasta with some garlic and oil, it’s incredible. You won't find a twenty-page menu here. Most places serve whatever was caught that morning. If the boat didn't bring it in, you aren't eating it. That lack of choice is actually a relief. I love it - no need to torment myself over which of the dozen fabulous options to choose. Just eat what they bring you.

Finding the quiet spots

If you stay in the main towns like Positano, you'll be surrounded by people taking selfies. It’s crowded and expensive. To see the real coast, you have to go where the buses don't always run on time.

Atrani is right next to the town of Amalfi, but it feels a world away. It’s a maze of narrow alleys and stairs. You’ll see laundry hanging over the streets and hear neighbors shouting to each other across balconies. It’s cramped and loud, but it’s authentic. There aren't many "attractions" there, and that’s why I like it.

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Beauty is pain

I also walked the Path of the Gods. It's a long hike, and my legs were sore for days, but the perspective you get from the top of the mountains is worth the effort. You pass old stone huts and olive groves that have been there for centuries. It makes our modern life feel very temporary.

The saying that ‘beauty is pain’ is a fair warning for this hike. The difficulty level is extremely high and this should not be attempted unless you have sturdy hiking boots (who packs those?) AND very strong balance with core strength. If this doesn’t sound like you, then buy a postcard, take a picture of it, and post to IG while lying on the beach.

Planning trips is scientifically proven to make you feel better. Stay warm.

See you next Wednesday.

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