Hot, Humit

Hanoi remains one of my favorite places in the world. It is chaos and serenity at the same time, satisfying everything I need in a vacation.
- Cris

Hanoi, Vietnam

Some cities invite you to visit; Hanoi demands that you adapt. Vietnam’s capital is a sensory overload in the best possible way—a place where ancient history and rapid modernization collide on every street corner. For the modern traveler, it offers an experience that is deeply textured, slightly exhausting, and entirely unforgettable.

I love this place.

The first thing that hits you when you arrive in Hanoi is the chaos of the streets. The traffic is legendary, a flowing, continuous sea of motorbikes that seems to defy the laws of physics. Motorbikes don’t need lanes or even enough space to pass through deadlocked traffic (or rapidly moving traffic). There are few traffic lights that people actually follow; instead, crossing the street requires a leap of faith. The trick is to walk at a slow, predictable pace. Do not stop, do not run, and do not make sudden movements. The drivers will calculate your trajectory and navigate seamlessly around you like water flowing past a stone in a river.

Driving is a team sport in Hanoi. At a massive 4-way intersection, with each direction using 8 full lanes, there is no traffic light. The side that works together to push through gets to go until another side musters up courage and pushes in. As a passenger, it is both terrifying and mesmerizing. Yes - I took out my phone and recorded it! I had no shame in being a tourist.

Going Somewhere? Protect Your Trip (and Your Sanity)

Your experience of this street ballet will change dramatically depending on when you visit. Unlike the tropical south of Vietnam, Hanoi experiences four distinct seasons.

• The Summer (May to September): Hot, humid, and punctuated by sudden, torrential downpours.

• The Winter (November to February): Surprisingly chilly and damp, with gray skies that give the French colonial architecture an evocative, moody atmosphere.

• The Sweet Spot: Autumn (October to November) or Spring (March to April), when the air is crisp, the sun is mild, and walking through the tree-lined avenues of the French Quarter is an absolute joy.

If the humidity gets to you, or if you simply want to take home the ultimate souvenir, make your way to a local tailor. While central Vietnam’s Hoi An is famous for rapid-fire clothing production, Hanoi offers an exceptional, highly refined tailoring scene. In the hidden alcoves of the Old Quarter or the upscale boutiques of Tay Ho, you can have bespoke suits, linen shirts, or traditional áo dài custom-made for a fraction of what it would cost in the West.

You select the fabric, get measured by an expert whose family has likely done this for generations, and return a couple of days later for a fitting. Walking out with a perfectly fitted garment made just for you is a classic Hanoi luxury.

I planned poorly and had clothes made 2 days before leaving the city. They offered to prioritize the items so they could come to my hotel for a final fitting but I declined. They shipped it to the US for free! Everything fit perfectly. They are still some of my favorite clothes. This should be your Day One priority - the quality of the material and craftsmanship is not found elsewhere and a full silk suit will cost you ~$40. It fits because it is made specifically for you. Many of the shops are filled with fabric but not models or examples of what you can have made. Bring pictures of what you like and they will instantly begin to suggest improvements that flatter you.

All that exploring will make you hungry, which brings us to Hanoi’s true crowning glory: the food. This is a city meant to be eaten at sidewalk level. Pull up a tiny plastic stool, sit mere inches from the passing traffic, and dive into the local cuisine.

Hanoi is the birthplace of phở, and here the broth is clearer, purer, and more understated than its sweeter southern counterpart. But don't stop there. Seek out bún chả—char-grilled pork patties swimming in a warm, tangy fish sauce broth served with rice noodles and a mountain of fresh herbs. Wash it all down with cà phê trứng (egg coffee), a rich, velvety concoction of robusta coffee topped with a sweet, whipped egg yolk foam that tastes like liquid tiramisu. The French occupation left behind a love of baguettes and dessert so save room for pastries…lots of pastries.

Let your nose guide you. If something smells good, try it. I have never had food poisoning here and my stomach is very sensitive. If you have food allergies, show them using an app on your phone and they will instantly adjust the recipe for you or suggest something else. They take the quality of their food and your experience very seriously.

What makes Hanoi truly memorable isn’t a single monument or museum. It is the juxtaposition of everyday life. It is the sight of an elderly woman selling fresh flowers from the back of a bicycle right next to a sleek, modern cafe. It is the smell of woodsmoke, star anise, and exhaust fumes mingling in the humid air. Hanoi doesn't change for you; it invites you to step into its beautiful, chaotic flow. Trust me, you want to do that.

I’m looking at hand crafted birthday cards that I bought from a street vendor in Hanoi for $0.50 each. A similar item would be £22-26 in London. The quality is amazing. Such a wonderful memory that fit nicely into my suitcase.

See you next Wednesday.

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