Reims, France: Kings, Champagne, and Twisted Trees

Reims, France:
Kings, Champagne, and Twisted Trees

Reims is the land that makes champagne wishes come true. As the sparkling heart of France's Champagne region, history bubbles over from Gothic cathedrals and Roman ruins to legendary wine cellars beneath rolling vineyards.

In Reims, we will enjoy the fairy tale side of Kings and avoid the messy, fighting, authoritarian parts. This will be fun.
- Cris

Day 1: Long Live The King

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims is like stepping into a giant storybook of French history, where nearly every king of France was crowned. The last king to be coronated in Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims was Charles X, on May 29, 1825. This event marked the final traditional French coronation ceremony, as the monarchy was abolished shortly afterward during the July Revolution of 1830. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Its towering stained-glass windows splash colorful light across the stone walls, and its 2,303 sculptures seem to come to life as you walk by. These sculptures include the expected saints and holy people but also a flying rhinoceros, laughing monkeys, and mystical creatures. I imagine that the Project Manager told the workers to “fill in the empty space” and left it to their judgement on what to create. There are so many funny mythical and realistic animal sculptures that it’s referred to as a “magical bestiary.”

From its Gothic spires to the deep secrets of its past, this cathedral feels magical and full of stories waiting to be discovered. I imagine conversations about having rival heads of State “removed” and the ideal location for a new home for the favorite mistress to be carried on as people walked through the halls to stretch their legs.

In addition to being a place of rich history, the Cathedral also hosts workouts called Circuit Of The Towers! The reward for running the 249 steps is a breathtaking (ha!) view of Reims and a close look at the statues that you could barely see on the ground. It’s a beautiful way to offset the calories from all of that champagne.

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Palais du Tau

Palais du Tau is where kings prepared for their big coronation ceremonies in Reims, so it's like stepping into their royal dressing room! Inside, you can see glittering crowns, fancy robes, and ancient treasures that bring the pageantry of history to life. The palace itself feels like a time machine, with grand halls and secretive rooms that make you imagine what it was like to be a king. I imagine more than one “king to be” refused a particular golden cup or huge emerald broach because his Father wore it for his coronation and …well…look how that turned out. When you have a building full of options, it’s easy to nitpick over what items will be included in your coronation.

There was definitely plenty of treasure to choose among. One - just one! - example is Charlemagne's talisman. By definition, a talisman is an object bearing consecrated signs attributed with protective virtues and magical powers. Charlemagne's Talisman, a double-sided jewel mounted as a pendant, contains a relic of the Cross of Christ! Legend has it that this Talisman was discovered hanging around his neck during an exhumation in 1166. I have so many questions, beginning with

1. Who failed to remove it from his body prior to burial? Other people may want to use those magical powers.

2. Why did they exhume, or “un-bury,” him? Did someone wake up in the middle of the night and realize they forgot to take off the jewelry?

3. What else did they find?

How did the Talisman avoid getting stolen by Nazi’s in WWII?

Day 2: Champagne Dreams

Land of Champagne

Dom Perignon, Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger, Mumm, Moet & Chandon…if these words inspire a thirst then today’s champagne tours will be the just the thing to set you right. There are so many big names here that it would require at least a week to fully appreciate the diversity of champagne flavors and styles. Sounds like a good week to me. These elite Maisons of Champagne describe themselves as “family businesses” (similar to the mob) and “family growers” to downplay their enormous wealth and influence.

These bottles are in almost every Rap song and many other music videos and lyrics. This is the currency of celebration and power. Please don’t follow a tasting with the words “it was ok” or you will see a very French shocked face (and possibly hear some French mumbling which is not complimentary at all)! I have added the 3-day tour offered by Grape Escapes to my bucket list.

See photos of each unique and mysterious Cellar

What To Eat (reviews and photos)

Day 3: Spa Day

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

Did you “possibly” consume too much champagne yesterday? That’s ok because today we reclaim our health. Unique in the region, the 1,500 m² Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is a destination in its own right. Nine treatment rooms, two swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), hammam, sauna, whirlpools, yoga studio, fitness room and beauty salon are all the spaces you will have access to during your stay. Leave your phone turned off, except to take a few photos. Good health requires a digital detox and this spa is expertly ready to assist you. After your skin/muscles/hands/feet have been restored, enjoy a full day of steam rooms, jacuzzi’s, and lounging without additional charges. And yes, any champagne consumed during the spa experience is medicinal. It’s a restorative.

While normally I would never advise leaving a Spa unless it is on fire (and the fire is near you), this is the exception. Pop on some clothes in the afternoon for High Tea and experience the perfection that cream and chocolate become in the hands of a Master Pastry Chef. Oh. My God. If I wasn’t acutely aware of other people in the room, I might eat every single piece on the tasting carousel and take some back to my room for midnight. That behavior, however, is likely frowned upon.

See the most perfect dessert tea table

Where To Shop (reviews and photos)

Day 4: Faux de Verzy

Montagne de Reims Natural Regional Park

Montagne de Reims Natural Regional Park is like a giant outdoor playground filled with rolling vineyards, mysterious forests, and wildlife everywhere. It’s the home of the famous twisted trees called Faux de Verzy, which look like something straight out of a fantasy book. Adventure lovers can hike, bike, or even zip-line through the park’s gorgeous landscapes. The park is also where the magic of Champagne begins, with vineyards that produce the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Everyone who spends the day here describes it as a beautiful place to walk, bike, draw, paint, or meditate.

Where To Sleep (reviews and photos)

All of that champagne has created happy bubbles in my head. Thank you Reims.

See you next Wednesday from Brescia, Italy.

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