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The Scent of Orange Blossoms and Sherry
It's time to dance.
Everyone could use a little break right now. I’m dreaming of dancing in Spain.
- Cris
Feria de Abril
Oh yeah… this is exactly what we need right now
If you find yourself in Seville two weeks after the solemnity of Holy Week, the city undergoes a metamorphosis. The somber incense of the processions is replaced by the intoxicating aroma of fried fish and orange blossoms. This is the Feria de Abril, a week-long celebration that is a living, breathing festival city within a city.
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Start here
The heart of the festival is the Real de la Feria, a massive fairground in the Los Remedios district. You start at the Portada, a towering, temporary gateway that is redesigned every year.
Wait.. every year? I still haven’t painted several rooms in the house I purchased in 2020. They’re doing better than me.
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Look at those crowds!
At midnight on the opening Monday (it was a few days ago), the Alumbrado ceremony sees thousands of lightbulbs flicker to life, illuminating the Portada and the streets of the fair. It is a celebration of light that signals the start of six days of pure Andalusian joy.
I totally have this year’s fashion in my closet. Don’t you?
Horses and High Fashion: The Daytime Parade
From midday until early evening, the fairgrounds host the Paseo de Caballos. Imagine hundreds of ornate, horse-drawn carriages and riders in traditional traje corto (short jackets and wide-brimmed hats) parading through the sand-dusted streets.
For women, this is the time to showcase the Traje de Flamenca. Unlike other traditional costumes, flamenco fashion evolves every year. If you aren't wearing the full gown, a "smart-casual" look with a bold flower in your hair is a perfect way to show respect for the tradition without feeling like you’re in a costume.
Watch out for the Rebujito - this is NOT water!
Sip, Snack, and Dance
You cannot experience the Feria without its signature flavors. Repeat after me “I must eat my way through this festival!”
The heat of the Seville sun inspires most people to enjoy the Rebujito, a refreshing, dangerously drinkable mix of Manzanilla sherry and lemon-lime soda, served in carafes with plenty of ice.
What to Eat:
Pescaíto Frito: Fried fish is the staple, especially on the opening Noche del Pescaíto.
Jamón Ibérico & Queso: Always carved fresh and served with picos (breadsticks).
Buñuelos or Churros: As the sun rises, follow the locals to the stalls for hot dough dipped in thick chocolate. Yum.
This festival should not be interpreted as a challenge. You rocked New Orleans at Mardi Gras? Good for you. The heat here is intense and the drinks go down real, real smooth so be mindful that naps are recommended.
I’ll be napping, dreaming of fancy dresses on horseback in Spain. Have a great week.
See you next Wednesday.
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